One of the most important concepts in bra-making is understanding that a pattern does not have a single, fixed fit. The finished fit is the result of the interaction between the pattern and the materials used to create it. The same bra pattern can produce a beautifully supportive bra in one fabric and a completely different result in another. This is because bra band fabrics vary in their stretch, recovery, stability, and ability to resist tension.
The bra band is particularly affected by fabric choice because it is the foundation of the entire garment. The band must stretch enough to allow the wearer to put the bra on comfortably, but it must also recover enough to return to its original shape and provide consistent support throughout the day. Choosing correct bra band fabrics is not just a matter of appearance. It is an engineering decision.
The most common bra band fabrics are:
Power net is one of the most commonly used bra band fabrics because it offers an excellent balance between stretch, recovery, and resistance. Unlike a soft fashion knit that simply stretches, quality power net is designed to provide controlled resistance. It allows the band to expand comfortably around the rib cage while maintaining enough tension to anchor the bra securely.
Different power nets can vary significantly. Some are firm and supportive, making them ideal for full-bust bras and larger cup sizes. Others are softer and more flexible, which may be better suited for lighter-support bras or smaller sizes. But all power nets are what I call honeycomb knits, as you can clearly see in the image above, as the mesh looks like a honeycomb when it is stretched. The honeycomb characteristic is what confuses bra makers because it the DoGS can be confusing. Let me explain.
If you pull on a honeycomb mesh in both directions, you will see that in one direction, the honeycomb gets noticeably larger, while in the other direction the honeycomb does not get larger. if anything, the honeycomb gets longer. This is a very important difference. Pulling parallel to the selvedge, you will see that the honeycomb is now in the long way while pulling across the fabric opens up the honeycomb and makes it larger. Close your eyes and pull again in each direction. The Direction of Greatest Stretch is the one with the BEST Spandex Stretch & Recovery, and that direction is clearly parallel to the selvedge. The other direction, across the width of the fabric has no spandex in it at all. The honeycomb is only opening up because of its shape. In the drawing below, the selvedge is running horizontally along the top and bottom of the fabric.
Stretch mesh fabrics are commonly delicate decorative meshes, either solid colour or printed. But just like power net, this mesh is a honeycomb knit. And the DoGS may confuse you just the same. So pay attention to the DoGS just as you did for power net in order to assess it for use as bra band fabrics. These lightweight fashion meshes may add beauty and breathability but provide very little structural support as a bra band fabric. Unless….you consider marrying the mesh to a second fabric. Perhaps a layer of power net or other firm spandex knit can be used behind the stretch mesh, often creating an interesting colour combination. In that way you can keep the delicate nature of the mesh, without losing the support intended in the bra band. For smaller cups, you might get away with using two layers of stretch mesh for the bra band, but that certainly won’t be enough for larger cups.
You often see a variety of stretch knits, including spandex intended for swimwear in fabric shops. But are they suitable for bra-making? The answer is YES…BUT! You can see in the image below, the fabric is not a honeycomb mesh, but a knitted fabric that happens to have spandex knitted in with it. Depending on the amount of stretch and recovery and resistance these fabrics, they might be very suitable to use for bra band fabrics, even though the weight of it might suggest leggings. In my personal collection of spandex fabrics, I have some knitted spandex that is firm enough for compression garments. Just watch the DoGS, though. These fabrics often have the spandex running across the width of the fabric. Test for the DoGS and mark the fabric to be sure.
Sometimes, you can find a very sheer, but very firm spandex fabric. I was lucky enough to find some of this a while back. it is not a honeycomb mesh but a true knitted sheer with spandex running through it. When I checked the stretch percentage of the fabric, I was pleasantly surprised to find out it was a firm stretch fabric and quite suitable for a bra band fabric. I was able to use it by itself for my own bra (4.75 BCD). So if you are rummaging in fabric stores, check out the clearance bins – you never know what treasures you might find!
This was a sample I got from a knit company years ago, and I kept the sample because I wanted to use it for myself as a bra band fabric! The background is definitely a honeycomb mesh, but the design is knitted in. There is actually enough to make two bra bands out of it. I think with plain fabric cups, the jacquard would be very smart looking as a bra band fabric.
This is an allover stretch lace I’ve had in my stash for quite awhile. It is quite firm, and I have made control panties and a body shaper from it with great success. Don’t overlook fabrics like this when looking for bra band fabrics, just because they are lacey looking.
Stretch satin is a beautiful, luxurious-looking bra band fabric, but it requires careful consideration. The amount of stretch and recovery can vary greatly depending on the fiber content and the amount of spandex in the fabric. Some stretch satins provide enough stability for a bra band (firm stretch satin), while others are designed primarily for garments other than bras and may not have sufficient recovery for a bra band. Always evaluate stretch satin based on performance, not just appearance. i know it’s tempting, but unless you are willing to pair it with power net underneath, it may not perform for you. It is worth mentioning that stretch satin almost always has the crosswise grain as the DoGS, because the lengthwise grain is virtually non-stretch.
Cotton spandex blends are comfortable, breathable, and popular for everyday garments. Their softness can make them appealing for bra band fabrics, especially for wearers who prefer a more natural fiber against their skin. However, not all cotton spandex fabrics are suitable as bra band fabrics. The percentage of spandex, the quality of the fibers, and the fabric weight all influence performance. A lightweight cotton spandex may feel comfortable initially but may lack the recovery needed to provide lasting support. Over time, the band may relax and begin to ride up.
For the best bra band fabrics, look for a fabric with spandex with good recovery and enough resistance to maintain tension throughout the day.
Please consider joining my Facebook group, Beverly Johnson’s Bra-making Support Group. We have a lot of information and sharing for bra-making enthusiasts!
