Even skilled bra-makers can fall into habits that lead to disappointing results. Sometimes the smallest details have the biggest impact on fit, comfort, and longevity. In this article, we’ll explore seven common mistakes that can sneak into even the most experienced sewing rooms.
From applying elastics with too much – or too little – tension, to choosing the wrong needle type or size for delicate bra fabrics, these seemingly minor errors can affect the finished garment more than you might think. We’ll also look at one of the most overlooked issues in bra-making: placing pattern pieces on the fabric without paying close attention to the Direction of Greatest Stretch (DoGS), which can dramatically alter fit and support.
Whether you’re sewing your tenth bra or your hundredth, this guide will help you identify hidden pitfalls, improve your construction techniques, and achieve more consistent, professional-looking results every time you sew.
A bra can be beautifully sewn and still fit poorly, or not at all, if the pattern pieces are cut with the wrong Direction of Greatest Stretch. I still shake my head when I think of the panties I cut out with the DoGS the wrong way (I was trying to fit a bra on a small bit of fabric) When the panties were finished they wouldn’t stretch around my thighs, but they pulled lengthwise up to my armpits! Lesson learned (hopefully)! Even a few degrees off grain can affect support, cup shape, and band stability. This is an especially common mistake when working with power net, directional prints, or trying to squeeze pattern pieces onto a limited piece of fabric. Power net is especially tricky – remember, if the honeycomb mesh gets larger when you pull on the fabric, that is NOT the right way. The little holes should get longer, not larger! Mark the DoGS on your fabric with a wash-out marker before you cut!
Don’t make the mistake of trying to apply a new elastic by using the same settings you used on your old familiar elastic. Test the elastic to be sure it finishes the way you want it. Neckline, underarm, band, and strap elastics require different amounts of tension. Too much tension can cause puckering and discomfort; too little can leave the elastic lacking support. See this post for adjusting a band for elastics with different stretch.
A universal needle might be in the machine from another project, but it can damage stretchy fabrics, cause skipped stitches, or play havoc with your elastic. Choosing between Microtex, Stretch, and Ballpoint needles – and selecting the appropriate size – can dramatically improve stitch quality. I recently discovered Super Stretch needles for highly elastic fabrics. I am going to test those out very soon! New fabrics must be tested so they won’t disappoint.
That gorgeous stretch lace may not have the recovery needed for a supportive cup. Even experienced sewists sometimes become captivated by beautiful fabrics without fully considering how the fabric’s characteristics will affect the finished bra. When in doubt, you can line the cups and frame with sheer cup lining.
Not all picot elastics, plush elastics, and fold-over elastics stretch equally. Making the mistake of substituting one elastic for another without checking stretch percentage and recovery can alter the fit of an otherwise well-drafted bra. It’s a mistake to assume a soft elastic can be sewn the same as a firm elastic. See this post for how to test elastics for your use. And just sew you know, someone showed me this stretch ruler at my classes at the Saskatchewan Stitches Conference – what a wonderful tool!
Experienced sewists often feel confident enough to jump straight into a new pattern without doing the sometimes tedious but oh-so-important step of stabilizing the neckline. Without stabilizing cups larger then 4.0 BCD, the neckline with tilt forward, or even stretch out enough that it will never tack back to the chest wall. it’s so important that I wrote about it here.
When a bra doesn’t fit perfectly, it’s tempting, but a BIG mistake, to alter the cup, wire line, bridge, and band all at the same time. The problem is that when the next version fits differently, it’s impossible to know which change helped and which one created new issues. The most efficient fitting process is the most disciplined: one variable at a time. I tell my students – fit the straps first, then the band, bridge, and finally the cups.
