One Pattern, Three Looks: London Hacks you can do

We all have that one “Holy Grail” pattern—the one that fits like a glove and makes us feel like a million bucks. For a growing number of us, that pattern can be found in the London Class. But even the best bra can feel repetitive if you sew it the same way every time. The good news? You don’t need to master a new set of instructions to get a brand-new style. By making small London “hacks” to the frame and the cup construction, you can turn your reliable London into a romantic statement piece, a modern edgy look, or a smooth everyday essential.

The London Bra is a true chameleon. It is a wired, multi-piece cup bra designed specifically to showcase beautiful laces, but its architecture is so solid that it serves as the perfect “blank canvas” for hacking.

Once you’ve achieved a perfect fit with your Bottom Cup Depth (BCD) measurement on the London, you don’t need to go hunting for a new pattern to get a different look. You just need to change the “engineering” of the frame and the finish of the cups.

Here is how to take the London and create three completely different vibes for your lingerie drawer.

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1. The “Romantic Longline” London Hack

The standard London is a classic full-band bra. But what if you want something with a bit more vintage drama or “lingerie-as-outerwear” appeal? You turn it into a longline.

• The Look: The band extends 2–4 inches further down the ribcage, creating a corset-like silhouette.
• How to do it: Extend the front frame and back band pattern pieces vertically downward by your desired length (usually 3 to 5 inches). Do this the same as lengthening a sleeve – by slicing the pattern pieces horizontally and moving the bottom piece downward. The join the top to the bottom piece.
  • Ensure the waist measurement measures to your waist measurement less 2″ (5 cm).
  • Pro Tip: To prevent the longline from “rolling up” when you sit down, you’ll need to add vertical casings and boning at the side seams and perhaps two points at the front.
• Best For: Bridal sets or wearing under high-waisted skirts.

2. The “Modern Strappy” London Hack

If you’ve been scrolling through high-end lingerie brands lately, you’ve seen the “strappy” look—where decorative elastics frame the top of the bust. This London hack is perfect and easy to do. I’ve written about it before in this post.

• The Look: Additional thin elastics run from the strap toward the center gore .
• How to do it: Before sewing your straps, cut two lengths of 1/4″ strap elastic or by using fold-over binding folded and stitched close to its edge.
  • Sew one end of the elastic somewhere along the front strap.
  • Run the other end to the center bridge (the gore).
  • You can even use a small “O-ring” at the center to connect the elastics for a high-fashion, edgy look.
  • For advanced thinking, add additional connectors made of real or faux leather.
• Best For: Adding visual interest to a sheer lace bra or a “peek-a-boo” look under a low-cut blouse.

3. The “T-shirt Bra” London Hack

The London Class has a bonus lesson on using foam, but sometimes you might want a bra that is invisible under a thin T-shirt. You can do a London hack and make a “seamless” foam cup.

• The Look: A smooth, structured, opaque cup that provides extra nipple coverage and a rounded, molded shape.
• How to do it: remove the 1/4″ (6 mm) seam allowances from the lower cup seam and the cross cup seam of the London upper cup and lower cup pieces. Then, cut your cup pieces out of 2 or 3 mm cut-and-sew foam instead of duoplex.
  • When sewing foam, do not use a standard seam; instead, butt the edges of the foam together and use a wide zigzag stitch (4 mm wide and 1.5 mm long) to join them. This keeps the seams flat and invisible.
  • Cover the foam with a lightweight, super- stretchy knit for a completely smooth finish. Be careful when pulling the fabric over the foam, so that you do not collapse the cup..
• Best For: Everyday wear and professional outfits where you want a seamless look.

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Which Hack Should You Try First?

Hack	Skill Level	Extra Materials Needed
Longline	Intermediate	Extra fabric, plastic boning, longer hook-and-eye.
Strappy	Beginner	Decorative 1/4″ elastic or FOB, optional O-rings.
Foam	Intermediate	Cut-and-sew foam, stretchy knit fabric.

Conclusion: The London Pattern is a Tool, Not a Rule

The most important thing to remember is that I designed these patterns to be a springboard for your imagination. As long as you don’t change the curve of the underwire line (where the cup meets the frame), you can change almost anything else about the styling!

Which of these London hacks is calling your name? I’m personally leaning toward a combination of two London hacks – a sexy black longline with a decorative harness. Which London hack would you do?