The Bra-makers Manual has everything you have wanted to know about making bras but didn’t know where to look. This is the original and first book of its kind, written as a textbook for the custom bra-maker. Home sewers up for a bit of a challenge will find this book a complete reference on bra design, draft, fit, and construction. Even if you never sew a bra for anyone else, you will thoroughly enjoy making your own well-fitting and supportive bras.
Author Beverly Johnson explains how to obtain the pattern for your bra (there are many sources) and how to change that one basic pattern into a library of bra styles and designs. You will learn to fit like a pro, how to choose and control fabric, and how to duplicate all of the professional techniques you see in ready to wear – including strapless, nursing, and mastectomy bras. There are optional patterns to purchase that were developed for use with this book. Please see the pattern section for the new Classic Bra pattern. The book is 240 pages with 4 in colour pages of pictures.
Second Edition: Now includes BCD Method of Bra Sizing
- History of the Bra…………………..1-12
The Bra Family Tree
So Who Invented the First Bra?
The Twenties and Thirties
The Rise of Elastic
Wartime and the Boomer Years
Burn That Bra!
That 70’s Look
The Feminine Mystique of the 1980s
The Return to Cleavage – 1990s
- Terms and Definitions……………..13-23
Parts of a Bra
Types of Bras
Cups
Frames
Bridges
Straps
Bra Findings
- What is Good Fit?…………………..24-33
What “is” Good Fit?
Characteristics of a Well-fitting Bra
Measuring for Ready-to-wear (N. American)
Measuring for Ready-to-wear (International)
Calculating Bra Sizes by Measurement
The BCD Method of Bra Sizing (Second Edition Only)
The Underwire System (First Edition Only)
International Bra Sizing Conversion Chart (First Edition Only)
- Making Fabric Choices……………34-50
Knits or Wovens
Knit terms
Percentage and Direction of Pull
Beefing up the Fabric
Fibre Content
Fabric Pull and How it Affects Design
Fabric Quantities
Elastic Terms
- Obtaining the Pattern……………….51-73
Home Sewing Patterns
Cloning a Ready-to-wear Bra
Breast Moulds
Bra Drafting Software
Drafting a Bra Pattern from a Sloper
Professional Bra Blocks
Terms used in Bra Design
Relating the Bra to the Pattern Pieces
Evaluating a Bra Pattern
Observations about Bra Grading
An Easy Way to Grade a Bra Pattern
Grading One Size Larger
- Birth of a Bra………………………………74-88
Tester Cups
Designing a Bra One Piece at a Time
Fabric Selection
Framework
Closure
Seamline Variations
Bridge and Band Detail
Straps
Bra Design Sheet
- The Construction Process………….89-122
Setting Up to Sew
The Equipment
The Tools
Preparing the Fabric Before Cutting
Construction Sequence of a Full Band Bra
Construction Sequence of a Partial Band Bra
Alternate Methods of Construction
Alternate Methods of a Front Strap Attachment
Alternate Methods of a Back Strap Attachment
Choices for Wire Line Treatments
Alternate Band Construction
Common Mistakes Everyone Makes
- Fitting to a Live Model……………123-145
Fittings Prior to Sewing
Assessing the First Fitting
Alterations to the Straps
Alterations to the Band
Alterations to the Bridge
Alterations to the Cups
- Style Changes for Fashion………..146-182
Minor Style Changes
Major Style Changes
The Strapless Bra
- Style Changes for Special Needs…183-222
Support Challenges
Support Bras
Nursing Bras
Mastectomy Bras
- Appendix…………………………223-230
Suggested Further Reading
Wire Chart
Client Information and Design Sheet
Fitting and Style Change Drawings
List of Sample Providers
- Index……………………231-235
Languages Available:
Bra-makers Manual spiral bound book – Volume 1 – English, German
Purchase the Bra-makers Manual Volume 1 here
