The Big Book of Swimwear

Have you wanted to make your own swimwear but feel you don’t have the sewing skills necessary to tackle such a project? Have you avoided working with stretch fabrics, elastics, and bra cups because they are “too challenging”? Then, the Big Book of Swimwear was written just for you! Author Beverly Johnson will take you step-by-step through the process of making swimwear. You can have it all—the best of the ready-to-wear features, but custom-fitted to your unique body. Beverly will take you step-by-step from the very beginning through to designing your own suits.

What will I find in the Big Book of Swimwear?

Got fitting issues? No problem! Beverly has devoted an entire chapter to modifying your pattern for a long or short torso, wide hips, small or large bust—even a panniculus! (If you don’t know what that is, check out Chapter 5). You’ll see how to do bust cup adjustments on tank and princess line suits. Add a back fastening—even if your pattern doesn’t have one.

You’ll then see how to lay out and cut the fabric and lining, and add a bra back for the ultimate in bust support. Learn how to draft and insert multiple types of bras to insert into your swimsuit, from the simplest of shelf bras to a full-support built-in bra. You will soon see it’s not difficult to make the fabric and elastics behave in your machine. You won’t have to struggle with making elastic straps anymore. Beverly’s professional sewing methods will make sewing swimwear a breeze.

Design, Draft, Fi,t and Construction—it’s all here!

Once you have mastered the basics, let your inner designer take over. Do you want colour blocking, ruffles, unique straps, or a Brazilian scrunch? These and many more designer details are in Chapters 8 and 9. There’s even a chapter on tankinis, bikinis, and other two-piece suits.

Everything is explained in glorious detail and well-illustrated throughout with over 800 drawings and photographs. Look through the photo gallery for some of the more complex techniques. What are you waiting for? The beach awaits!

To visually see some of the tips and techniques explained in this book, consider enrolling in the online class taught by Beverly through Craftsy. Her class, Sewing Swimsuits: The Supportive One-Piece, is chock full of tips, tricks, and ideas for making supportive swimwear. With Craftsy, once you purchase the class, it is yours forever with unlimited access, or you can try their very affordable subscription service.

Table of Contents

Introduction ………………………………………….…….………1 

1. Types of Swimwear…………………………………….….….. 4

One piece

Two-piece

Top Variations

Bottom Variations

Bust Support

Back Variations

2. Swimwear Design………………………………………..…..22

Flattering One-piece Style Lines

Flattering Two-piece Style Lines

3. Swimwear Materials……………………………….…….…..28

Fabrics

Swimsuit Linings

Fabrics for a Built-in Bra

Bra Cups

Elastics

Hardware 

Ornamental Hardware

Underwires

Separators

Continuous Wires

4. Swimwear Patterns…………………………………….…….50

Using Patterns for Ready-to-wear

Measuring the Body for a Swimsuit

Ease Allowances for Commercial patterns

Measuring for Foam Cups

Using a Multi-size Pattern

5. Pattern  Adjustments …………………………………..…….58

Pattern Alterations for Fit

Altering Patterns for Body Length

Altering for Length

Altering the Width

Bust Cup Alterations

Checking the Pattern for Accuracy

Drafting an Interior Bra Shelf

Drafting for a Back Fastening 

Drafting a Separate Bra Back

Drafting for a Built-in Bra

6. Construction Techniques ……………….……….………..83

Swimsuit Shopping List

Pattern Layout Machine Setup

Construction—the Back is First

Front with Pre-formed Bra Cups 

Front with a Built-in Bra 

Fitting the Swimsuit

Elastics and Finishing

Binding Application

Making Elastic Straps 

Variation—the Swim Dress

Variation—the Mono-kini 

Variation—the Retro Suit

7. Tankinis, Bikinis & More ……………………………..……117

Tankinis

Tankini and Bikini Bottoms

Swim Shorts

Adding Bands

Crop Tops

Triangle Bikini Tops

Making a Bikini from your Bra

Finishing Cup Edges

Covering Pre-formed Foam Cups

Construction of Foam Cup Bikinis

8. Designer Details …….………………………………….…..165

Changing Straps

Sewing Straps to the Neckline

Changing the Neckline Shape

Changing the Back

Changing the Leg Shape

Modesty panels 

Colour Blocking 

Inserting Separators

Continuous Wires

9. Flare, Frills, Ruffles & Ruching ……………………..……198 

Flared Skirts

Frills 

Ruffles

 Ruching

Brazilian Scrunch

Bonus – Swimwear Cover-ups

10. Index……………………………………………….…..……220

Published in March 2018 by Beverly V. Johnson.

Purchase the Big Book of Swimwear here

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